Wilkommen!
You think you know but you have no idea.
Alright, so maybe studying abroad isn’t quite that dramatic, but it is a world of its own. Just having completed my freshman year at UC Davis I was rather nervous to partake in a program where most the students were juniors and seniors and with much more experience and knowledge under their belts. Being a Film Studies and History major I was really pumped to live in Vienna, a city rich with history and the arts, and my experiences there, as well as traveling to Prague and other cities, was more than I could have asked for. By studying abroad I was able to learn fun German phrases and the history of the Habsburgs, I got to satisfy my aesthetic side by visiting museums and attending the opera, I was able to see the effects of Soviet rule in the Czech Republic, and I came away from the program with new friends from different UC campuses and amazing, once-in-a-lifetime memories! If you feel at all hesitant about studying abroad, I say go for it, because you’ll never know when you’ll have the opportunity again…
August 1
* With the first chapter in Vienna: The Past in the Present, I really got a clear sense of the beginnings of the early establishments of Vienna. It really goes to show how vast the Roman Empire was in building fortifications all across Europe. I also liked reading more about the history of Central and Eastern Europe because this area of concentration was practically skipped over in my high school courses. What I also enjoy about this book is that it relates the importance of these historical facts to present day, which is really what history is all about.
* Culturally speaking, I’ve noticed that Europeans can almost immediately point out the Americans. In several encounters with locals I might say hello or ask a question in German and they respond in English. In this sort of situation I feel discouraged to continue in German because I already feel defeated. But alas, I must try again. Also, I’ve heard that people can spot out Americans purely by their shoes. This doesn’t surprise that much, seeing that many American tourists wear white sneakers and flip-flops as opposed to Birkenstocks and loafers, but it is still an interesting way to point out the non-locals.
* Checking into the dorms was an experience in itself, solely due to the surroundings. It is quite clear that the dorms are situated in the more promiscuous area of Vienna, which will be very different from anything I’m used to. Even though prostitution is legal here, I still get a vibe that matters are done pretty secretly in the sense that nothing is being thrown out there, it’s mostly luring people in via display windows. When I researched the area before I left and discovered that we were going to live in the Red Light District I had a very different image of the neighborhood in mind, thinking that it was going to be a wild and crazy place. Although the Prater is just across the street, the area is much more tame than I had preconceived and it actually has a lot of character to it, which will make for good stories (i.e. the Xena Bar).
August 2
The glorious Rathaus at night
* The online readings for today really were a handful. They are full of information, almost too much to handle at once. Nonetheless, I find it very interesting how powerful and significant the marriage alliances were for Maximilian I and Charles V. It makes gaining power seem so easy. I really enjoy the Habsburg motto, “Let others wage wars, you, happy Austria, marry!” The ambitious Charles V and his ideas for a universal monarchy surprised me. With all the religious warfare that has preceded him in the history of the world, it seems like a ridiculous plan to have in the first place.
* The walking tour of the Hofburg palace was great. It was neat to see the Roman ruins that had been discussed in the book. When we walked into the Heldenplatz I could completely imagine how it was under the rule of the Habsburgs. The Rathaus is also a gorgeous building and the open-air film festival was amazing with the sounds of the opera while crowds of people wined and dined under the stars.
* I am so jealous that Europe in general has so much rich history to it, while back home in California there is hardly such a thing beyond the mission establishments. I suppose this is the beauty of traveling, to see how other places were and how they currently exist. As seen in the nightlife at Rathaus, people here really enjoy the arts. There is certainly a different kind of appreciation here than in the States.
August 3
* What gets me is just how long the Habsburgs were in power. Over 600 years of the same family is amazing. It was definitely helpful in lecture going over the slimmed-down version of European history pre-Habsburg times. Discussing the estates, the electors, and even the defining factors of the Holy Roman Empire helped to understand the readings a bit better. The video was also a great refresher of everything we had discussed. I particularly find that the best way to learn history is to repeatedly hear, see, and read the facts so it is embedded in my mind.
* I ate at one of the many kebab stands today. It made me think about the American fascination with fast food. The kebab/sausage/pizza stands here are pretty much the closest thing to our fast food, except, of course, for the usual McDonald’s and KFC’s you find everywhere. And most people don’t even eat these kebabs on-the-go, instead they stand around the kiosk and eat. That’s one of the big problems I find with America; everyone is on the go all of the time. And even though we have cafés in the States, it’s nothing like the café atmosphere here, and there are practically cafés everywhere here, as well as in most other European cities I’ve been to.
August 4
Statue of Maria-Theresa in front of the Kunsthistorisches (Art History) Museum
* Vienna certainly had a lot of hardships following the Counter-Reformation in the 1600s. Outbreaks of the plague, the threatening Turks to the east, and even continuing problems with Protestants and Catholics all befell the empire. It’s interesting how when you learn about one topic, such as the plague, you begin to think that that was the only thing happening at that time, but really there are a variety of problems that happen simultaneously and I think Lehne & Johnson book does a good job at explaining overlapping events.
* Today, we ventured to the Kunsthistorisches Museum and discussed a few pieces and their iconologies. I just took an art history course in the spring so I felt very prepared and eager to take a long look in this museum. I saw a particular painting that we discussed in that course which made me very excited. It was the portrait of Isabella D’Este by Titian from 1535. It is rather important in the development of women in the art world. When Isabella commissioned the painting she was around 60 years old, although she appears to be around 20 in the portrait. She also used her art collections to further the achievements and preconceptions of her gender.
* Some cultural highlights of the evening was when we went as a big group to a local bar/club. It was very obvious that we were Americans, and probably the only ones there. It was also very interesting that the music selection was 100% American music, ranging from oldies to current songs. It was a great experience to see how different people interact because the locals all seemed very subdued (perhaps this was due to the alcohol) and were sitting and lounging, while all of us were up dancing the whole night. Europe is definitely a leisurely place. And a smoky place. I’m a bit surprised at the fact that Europe has such a large population of smokers. Due to the stereotypes of well educated, liberated people I would think that people would have more common sense about the dangers of smoking, in my opinion. All I can say is that I’m glad I live in California where it’s illegal to smoke indoors!
August 5
* Since today was Saturday, I went to the Naschmarkt and experienced the Viennese flea market. It was very different from any flea market or garage sale I’ve been to in the States because there was so much more history to the merchandise. I almost walked away with a bundle of old film noir brochures from the 50s and 60s, but the man working the booth wasn’t willing to lower the price. I loved seeing things that came from the WWII era, although we saw some things with Nazi insignias on them. That was pretty strange to say the least. I would have loved to have bought some old books or some bizarre trinkets, but it would be difficult finding a way to bring it all home.
* Today also brought a tour of the Catacombs in Stephansdom. It was quite interesting to see where the internal organs of the Habsburgs had been put to rest. It is an odd practice, that of dispersing different body parts around the city, which reminds me of the Egyptian practice of removing internal organs and placing them in Canopic jars. In this case, the Habsburgs used urns and they are in the catacombs. Their hearts are in the Hofburg in the Augustinerkirche and all the other body parts are in the Kaiserguft. The tour continued on to see thousands and thousands of plague victims. The saddest part was that there were just mounds of bones, as if everyone was just tossed in there, which I’m sure was the case. It was also eerie to be in the dark basements, with the dampened smell, staring into rooms full of femurs and skulls. Knowing that the various plagues killed off about one third of Europe’s population, it is even more brutal knowing that the catacombs only hold a small fraction of those who perished. As creepy as it was, the tour was definitely worthwhile and made the history come alive.
* Much to the chagrin of the professor, a group of us went to TGI Friday’s due to a craving for cheeseburgers. Although it is an American chain, there were certainly differences in the menu, in presentation, and in service. That is something that I’ve noticed a lot in Europe, that although something may be from America, like McDonald’s, the format and the menu is changed. I’ve seen some very snazzy McDonald’s throughout my travels in Europe, which is very surprising compared to the usually run-down ones back home. Not that I’m an aficionado of these fast food joints, but I find it interesting that the marketing is done so much differently, which really just brings it all back to history and how things are perceived differently because of the past.
August 6
Inside the Schatzkammer (Imperial Treasury)
* The Schatzkammer is a stunning collection. Home of the Habsburg’s Imperial Treasury, the museum is full of gold, silver, jewels, relics and beautiful tapestries. I could not believe the detail that was put into all the objects on display; it just goes to show how wealthy the Habsburgs were. Something that I surprisingly learned while I was there was that Napoleon became a member of the Habsburg network by marrying Marie Louise, which was also mentioned in the readings. I was enticed by this because I don’t remember studying this in high school, and also because I thought Napoleon only had ties with Josephine. I enjoyed the room dedicated to Napoleon’s era and was amazed by the blankets that were made of gold and pearls. I also found the largest cut emerald in the world quite astounding. In the Vienna guide book it mentions that one of the rooms alone holds enough jewels to “wipe the debt of a third-world country.” That is insane! There is also a large tusk in the museum that was once claimed to be the horn of a unicorn, which supposedly had magical healing powers. This caught me off guard because I’ve never associated unicorns with modern Europe, they usually seem like medieval creatures that go hand-in-hand with the myth of the dragon.
August 7
* The readings for today focus on the Enlightenment, a particular topic of interest to me. Something that caught my attention was the fact that Austria did not fully experience this enlightening era because a dominant bourgeois class did not exist. There simply were not enough people to promote and spread the ideas that were so popular in such places as France and England. On the other hand, the Habsburgs became heavily involved, Maria Theresa and Joseph II in particular, with Enlightened Absolutism and one of their first priorities was catering to the people. The two aforementioned rulers did so much to accommodate to the circulating ideas of reason, religious tolerance, and to break away from the traditions of the dominating churches. The exponential increases of public welfare proved to be a bit too much at once for the people, so some of these overzealous leaders’ plans backfired. Nonetheless, mother and son did a lot to help the community and it’s subjects and they also created much growth for the city of Vienna.
* Today a few of us ventured to the Military and Arsenal Museum (Heeresgeschichtliches Museum). Unfortunately, we got there only about an hour before it was closing, so it was a bit of a rushed experience, but great nonetheless. The museum has a very extensive collection ranging from the Thirty Years War to the Anschluss leading into World War II, and there are even jets and tanks surrounding the perimeter. They even have the car Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in, as well as the sofa and coat he died in, all stained with blood. It was rather morbid. Our attention, however, was mainly focused on the first floors which followed the Thirty Years War, the Napoleonic Wars, the Austro-Prussian War, and the Turkish Wars too. What captured my attention were the Turkish Wars. As mentioned in Past in the Present, the Ottomans became a new threat in the sixteenth century as they gravitated west and took siege of the city in 1529 and again in 1683. The latter proved to be a very significant victory over the Turks as Austria was able to regain Hungarian and Transylvanian territories, all under the guidance of military mastermind, Prince Eugene of Savoy. I particularly liked the Ottoman weaponry that was on display. The Turks had such a different military style, compared to Western forces, which can clearly be seen in the more barbaric weapons like bows and arrows and large staffs with crescent shaped blades. I found it interesting that a common feature on Ottoman headgear and uniforms was horse tails. Also, everything is very decorative, such as the gorgeous tents that were used to house soldiers. There was one large tent that was halfway set-up and I couldn’t help but feel in awe by the detail and design of it. There is just something about the Ottoman culture and the artistry involved that completely intrigues me.
August 8
Reinventing Rococo exhibit at the Albertina
* A visit to the Albertina proved to be an interesting experience, as the main focus was who else but Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. I didn’t particularly like the setup of the exhibit and I found the audio guide to be very lengthy. Part of the museum focused on Mozart and The Magic Flute, where there was a cool screening room of computer-generated scenes from the opera. The other portion of the upstairs area had an exhibit titled “Reinventing Rococo.” It was quite a strange and bizarre display of odd paintings, photographs, and artistically arranged objects. Since Rococo was an artistic style formed for the upper-class as a form of escapism and a way to reinforce people’s denial about existing problems among society, I can kind of see that being reflected in the weirdly distracting pieces in the museum. The downstairs portion was titled “Mozart and the Enlightenment,” but I thought there were too many things being displayed to make a coherent connection between the two subjects. In fact, there really weren’t many references to Mozart as much of what was displayed were books, pamphlets, and paintings of Enlightenment life, which in itself was rather sporadic. To sum it up, I didn’t feel like I learned anything that I hadn’t already known about Mozart or the Enlightenment, although I’ve never seen a crocodile wearing a wig. Now that was pretty great.
* I think something that you can find anywhere in large cities are street performers, both great entertaining ones and pitiful ones that you almost want to give money to just so they can stop humiliating themselves in public. I had the pleasure of watching some that belonged in the latter category during my time in Vienna. I don’t blame the city at all for this; I just think it’s unlucky. Stephansplatz is a breeding ground for this sort of activity, and walking through the area nearly every day it’s interesting to see the same people pulling the same tricks day after day while still drawing in the crowds. Can you really make a living doing this? I can appreciate it more when it’s something you can tell the person enjoys, like break-dancing or doing magic tricks, but standing still, in the summer, painted from head to toe in gold? It boggles me, especially the guy in Stephansplatz that makes monkey noises all day long. It’s impressive, but it’s also just plain stupid.
* A great gem that’s a bit hidden is the Haus der Musik. What a wonderful time! Anyplace that has a ‘Womb Room’ is good in my book. The best part of this museum is the fact that it’s very interactive. You can compose music at the roll of a dice, conduct an orchestra with a flip of a wand, listen to the sounds of everyday tasks (yes, even farting), play in the ‘Brain Opera’ room, and relax in the Mozart Lounge, just to name a few of the different things you can do here. On a side note, I think the Mozart Lounge should become a real place where you can order drinks and listen to trance/techno mixes of Mozart music. It would be fabulous. Anyhow, Haus der Musik also has one floor dedicated to Vienna’s great composers (Mozart, Beethoven, Strauss, Schubert, Haydn, and Mahler) each with their own room, decorated accordingly to their personality and era. My particular favorite, also because he is my favorite composer, was Strauss’ room. Since he is the ‘father of waltz’ there was a revolving dancing couple in the center, videos of dancing feet, and even a dancing pattern on the floor so you could learn to waltz yourself. We spent a whopping three hours here and had a blast the whole time. Haus der Musik definitely tops my list as coolest museum ever. Not only was it interactive and fun but it was also extremely informative with clear explanations and information about all sorts of topics.
* At the end of this long day, we decided to finish it off with a slice of the famous sacher torte at the Sacher Café. Only in a few other experiences have I felt more out of place. It is no surprise that the Sacher Café and the Sacher Hotel are classy places, so a group of young Americans dressed in very casual attire walking through the door felt just a tad awkward. It is a very quiet place and the atmosphere is subdued. The dessert was great, but we could feel people staring at us. We were well behaved and had great manners, but I guess there are some places in the world where you just don’t belong. I think this is one of them.
August 9
Peter Paul Rubens, 'Wunder des hl. Franz Xaver'
* While we were exploring the Kunsthistorisches Museum in the first week we were given an assignment to find examples of both Protestant and Catholic sensibilities. Today I went back to the museum and found a few paintings that I thought represented these very different religious perspectives. Firstly, the Catholic example I found is by Peter Paul Rubens, an artist known for his dedication to the Catholic faith. In the painting, ‘Wunder des hl. Franz Xaver,’ a religious scene is being presented which clearly promotes and helps spread the ideology of Catholicism. A saint is showing, by pointing up to the angels above, that through God one can be saved, unlike those that are suffering and dying down below. People are horrified as they look upon the ill, as if they are witnessing real proof of the devil. Catholic Baroque art was clearly all about propaganda and wrangling in as many followers possible during the stressful and competitive years of the of the Reformation and Counter-Reformation.
* On the other hand, Protestant sensibility can be seen in Johannes Vermeer’s ‘Die Malkunst’ of 1666. Vermeer, as well as most Dutch artists of this time, focused on the daily activities of commoners. Die Malkunst is an expression of the working mentality, which was dominant in Protestant sects, especially Calvinism. There isn’t a feel of religion in the piece as opposed to the Catholic one. It’s displaying simpletons and everyday life and the prospect of salvation through grace alone. Also, the style itself isn’t showy or grandiose like the Baroque style; it’s more conservative and refined.
* Tonight also was the opera. The night alone was fun simply by the fact of seeing everyone dressed up and taking part in a cultural event. Although we were in the very last row of the highest tier I still had a wonderful time. In fact, since I stood most of time in order to see all of the stage, it reminded me of what it would have been like to have lived back in the day when everyone besides the upper-class had to stand during the entire performance, such as with Shakespeare’s Old Globe. But then I realized, on both the left and right balconies of the theater, that there were people standing in specifically ‘standing only’ areas. I guess a lot of things haven’t changed, which works as a nice segway into my thoughts on the opera itself. Don Giovanni: a timeless story about a man playing the field with his loyal wingman at his side. I was a bit disappointed that this version was a modernized representation merely because everything these days seem to be modernized and I just wish I could see something the way it was originally intended. Regardless of settings, I was amazed by the stage set and thought it was a fitting choice to have it set in a hotel; perfect for Don Giovanni to see women checking in and out, as well as a perfect place for a bachelor pad. Don Giovanni clearly has a lavish lifestyle and in a way is brought to his senses when the ghost of Donna Anna’s father appears and tells him he won’t live much longer. I was a bit confused at first during the last scene when they were much older, but it makes sense that this is the way Don Giovanni would become if he continued to live this way. The descent into Hell scene was also riveting and the squirting blood was really entertaining.
August 10
Crazy relics in Melk Abbey!
* The façade of the Melk Abbey is stunning. Set atop of the hill, the old Benedictine monastery can be seen from all around. Even though the abbey has become a museum, I was surprised to learn that monks still live there and the school still exists. All the tourists would seem distracting to me. I liked how the museum portion was built symbolically, such as the room where the floor was uneven to represent the ups and downs of the monastery. I was taken aback, however, at some of the descriptions and explanations that were displayed throughout the museum that seemed to present a very matter-of-fact standpoint on their religious views, which they have the right to, but it surprised me in this day and age that it wasn’t more passive and open-minded. I found the library to be very cool and liked the fact that it was made to be symmetrical and the that the book covers reflect those on the opposite side. Also, the church was beautiful with its Baroque interior and the full body skeletons of holy people were stunning. I couldn’t believe how decorated they were and the glamorous positions they were in.
* Another feature in Melk were the English gardens. We talked in class how English gardens were designed in reaction against the neoclassical style to look naturalistic and to be an ideal setting. The irony is that making a garden to look natural is just as manipulative and the most unnatural thing. The Melk gardens did look more natural with winding trails through trees up a hill and there wasn’t really any symmetry involved, which is interesting since the library was so big on symmetry.
* I must mention our wild train transfer coming home from Melk. It was probably one of the most fun and unexpected moments on this whole trip and it only lasted about 30 seconds. Just to see everyone running as fast as they could, while laughing and screaming, through a crowded train station was one of the most entertaining experiences, and to top it all off we were a group of thirty American college students being stared down by everyone around us.
August 11
* I love how the Belvedere Palace is right in the city, this glorious Baroque style museum that was originally the summer home to Prince Eugene of Savoy. Although the Upper Belvedere isn’t elevated that much, the view from the building provides a great panoramic of Vienna’s city center as your gaze goes past the gardens and fountains that lead to the Lower Belvedere. Today’s time was spent in the Upper building where inside was just as beautiful with a plentiful art collection. The main attraction was the striking Gustav Klimt collection. I had heard of Klimt before and knew of his more famous paintings like ‘The Kiss,’ but I didn’t know too much about him or his style. In general seeing a painting in person isn’t all that different than seeing it in book, but seeing Klimt pieces in the flesh was a different experience altogether mainly since his colors and his famous gold doesn’t carry over as well in reproductions. It is definitely something worthwhile to see in person. Knowing that Klimt was one of the main leaders in the Secession and Art Nouveau movements in Vienna helped to further understand the iconography of his paintings. There is a struggle between the faces and bodies with the overwhelming gilded and fragmented backgrounds, which could possibly be the competition of tradition versus Klimt’s own new non-traditional style. You can see that there is an ambiguity in depth, an absence of time, and much of his work is very geometric. I particularly liked ‘Judith I’ from 1901, which tells of the Biblical heroine known for cutting off the head of Holofernes, because it hardly shows the head in the bottom corner while the rest of the painting is so seductive. It is extremely different from Baroque artist Carravagio’s version of the same story from 1599; It is amazing to see how much art has evolved, yet many of the same stories are being told through the canvas.
August 12
Innsbruck
* This weekend a group of us decided that we would go check out more of Austria and visit the smaller cities of Innsbruck and Salzburg. On the train a few us talked to a friendly middle-aged teacher from Vienna that willingly told us all about the education system in Austria (like how the universities are free and there is an overflow of foreigners coming to study), about employment and how difficult it is to find new jobs, and about economical issues such as taxes. I’ve really enjoyed the whole ‘riding trains’ experience because it is such a great way to meet people from around the world.
* Innsbruck is a cute little city in Tyrol with beautiful views of mountaintops all around. In the city center there is a Habsburg residence, which just goes to show their expansiveness, and the city houses the tomb of Emperor Maximilian I. Most of our time was spent walking around the city and checking it out. We also got quite good as figuring out the busing system, which is quite a new thing to most Californians. It’s too bad that public transportation isn’t that popular in the States, or least not in suburbia. Things really need to change if we want to stop global warming. Anyway, we ended up staying at a nice campsite for the night (all hostels were booked) where we met a couple that was making their way through Europe by bicycling. They had already been riding for 2 weeks straight through France and Germany and planned to ride for a few more weeks to end up who knows where.
August 13
* One thing that we had to make sure that we did on this trip was to go hiking in the Alps. Today we did just that for a few hours just outside of Innsbruck’s city center. It was great to be outdoors and in the wilderness, and finally on a sunny day. There were all kinds of people and all ages on the path. In fact, we even passed a hiking nun. It turns out that we were hiking to a popular destination for the locals; a biergarten. It was a very crowded but quaint place where there was a playground for children and there were cows grazing on the hillside. We decided that we all deserved to have a beer after hiking all that way. After the beers we hiked back down, caught the bus to the train station, and made our way to Salzburg. After a few hours on the train we arrived to our destination that night and finally found our hostel after getting lost several times. The hostel was actually pretty nice and we meet a brother and sister pair from Germany that we talked to over a late dinner. We mostly discussed teenager things like their school system, sports, and American television versus German television.
August 14
The views of Salzburg
* While in Salzburg we decided to take advantage of The Sound of Music tour, which bussed us around the outskirts of Salzburg. Beyond seeing sights where the famous film was shot, we got to see some beautiful Austrian landscapes. We stopped in the town where Mozart’s mother was born alongside Lake Wolfgang. It was very satisfactory to see the countryside and these small towns after spending so long in a big city.
* We spent some time walking around and exploring Salzburg just as the sun came out, which allowed for some breathtaking views of the historic center and the fortress atop the hill. We went to the café where the original Mozartkugel chocolates are made and walked through the markets. Before we had to catch the train back to Vienna we decided to make a stop at another biergarten. This one was unique though in the sense that it was in an old church, St. Augustine’s. It also claims to be the largest biergarten in Salzburg, and I believe it. I appreciate this whole ‘beer as culture’ concept because drinking is so relevant pretty much everywhere in Europe and there is such a different notion regarding alcohol than there is in America. We were there in the middle of the afternoon and it was fairly crowded, which just goes to show what a natural occurrence it is to go out and enjoy a beer…or two. About Salzburg in general, however, I find it peculiar that there is so much publicity for Mozart, but according to Peter Gay’s biography on Mozart, he despised the city, but now the city is making money off of his fame.
* Speaking of Mozart and the many chocolates made after him, tonight I made Mozart dumplings, which I bought at Billa. It’s basically a Mozart ball with crusty dough around it. It’s the most delicious dessert, far better than the sacher torte, if I may say so myself.
August 15
Looking down on Old Town Square
* Today we left to go to Prague for a few days. Staring out the window, I could immediately tell when we had crossed the border to the Czech Republic. I’m not sure whether the unkempt appearance of the landscapes are due to the fact that it’s a former Soviet country and has more financial issues compared to Western Europe, or whether it’s due to the fact that the Czech Republic is not a member of the European Union yet, thus appearing a little differently because it’s a bit of an outsider. I suppose it has to do with both, but I just thought it was interesting to see such a vast difference in the train stations alone from Austria to the Czech Republic.
* The short ride on the Metro from the train station to our hostel was probably the most crowded underground experience since being here. Maybe I’ve just avoided missing rush hour in Vienna but I found that interesting. Also, I’ve noticed that there is a larger crowd of younger people than in Vienna, which makes sense since Prague has been getting a lot of attention lately in terms of the nightlife. Also, Vienna is slower-paced and I think it just gravitates an older crowd due to the heavy presence of the arts and all of the history.
* I have to say that our hostel is pretty cool. Staying in a former convent/prison cells/interrogation rooms was better than staying somewhere that didn’t have any history or stories to it. It was slightly creepy walking down the long, dark hallways that creaked along the way, but it was painted very colorfully (to distract you from the fact that people were imprisoned here!). Knowing that Vaclav Havel, the leader of the 1989 Velvet Revolution, stayed here definitely added some character to the place and the historical content made it easier to imagine the city during Communist times.
* Our local tour guide, Radka, began our first portion of touring the city. We mainly saw the area around the hostel and Old Town Square, which was bustling with people, especially around the Astronomical clock that has a 20 second routine every hour. Death rings the bell as three other archetypes (Vanity, Greed, and Pagan Invasion) shake their heads in refusal to death.
* As Radka mentioned to us, Prague is a safe city and she expressed to us that the biggest crime problems revolve around pick-pockets. A few of us walked around late at night and I never once felt unsafe, which is so different from any big city back home. Even Vienna and other European cities are generally safe; the most crime done is with property, unlike the States where it’s rape, theft, and murder.
August 16
*Today Radka took us on a tour of the Jewish quarter. We went to the Jewish Museum where there was a large memorial for all of the Jewish victims from Prague that perished during World War II. There was also a display upstairs of kids’ drawings during Nazi occupation. It was heartbreaking to see the loss of innocence in the drawings as kids were dealing with unthinkable things. The old cemetery was very different from any cemetery I’ve seen. It was hilly with headstones crowded together, falling over one another. About all of the tombstones had little pebbles resting on them, which is a way for people to remember those who have passed on. We then went to see the Spanish Synagogue, which was absolutely beautiful. The whole place is full of gold and rich colors and the synagogue encompasses part of the Jewish Museum, which gives a clear look at the Jewish history of Prague and focuses on the many successful Jews that have come from the city, such as writer Franz Kafka.
* After the tour I went to check out the Museum of Communism, which is ironically located next door to a McDonald’s. It’s a pretty small museum but it is packed with some punch. It’s mostly a display of pictures and Communist propaganda, arranged to look like what a home or grocery store looked like behind the Iron Curtain. Most chilling, though, and certainly eye opening is the video that plays real news clips of the riots leading to the Velvet Revolution. Seeing that made me a bit more understanding when walking by Havel’s room at the hostel that night.
* Another highlight of the day was watching a football match in a local pub. I love how watching sports in Europe is a community event, and it’s even a big deal for games that are played just for fun. We were just watching a ‘friendly’ match of England vs. Greece, yet the place was packed and here we were in Prague. I love how Europe acts like one big dysfunctional family.
August 17
Charles Bridge and Prague Castle in the distance...
* Today we crossed Charles Bridge to discover Lesser Town. As mentioned in “Prague in Black and Gold,” King Charles contributed to an extensive amount of development for Prague and Bohemia under his reign from 1347 to 1378 making the city “a wondrous heart of European power, religious feeling, creativity, and erudition.” To have the most famous bridge in town named after him is very suiting since it brings both banks of the city together, reflecting the actions of Charles himself. We went inside the Catholic St. Nicholas’ Church (there is a Protestant St. Nicholas’ in Old Town Square) and here Radka sat down with us a talked about the Communist ere, which she lived through. Hearing stories of repression from someone who lived through it is far beyond anything that a history book could do. It sounds like Radka had to live under so many restrictions and couldn’t live freely because certain things were altogether forbidden. One such thing was religion in school. It was absolutely not allowed so this is part of the reason why the Czech Republic has a high percentage of Atheists.
* We continued up the hill to see Prague Castle (which has a hodge-podge of buildings from different rulers; even the Habsburgs left their mark) and saw the famous window that started the Thirty Years’ War in the Defenestration of Prague. I don’t think there is a better story than an argument between Protestants and Catholics ending with a person being chucked out of window intended to fall to his death, yet miraculously saved by a heap of dung. Whoever said history was boring?!
August 18
* We had free time this morning before heading back to Vienna, so I took the opportunity to do some shopping, but then to explore more of Lesser Town. I happened to find the John Lennon wall, which was resurrected in memory of the legendary singer and activist, and also acted as a political refuge for Czech youth. It’s been covered with layers and layers of graffiti and Lennon can hardly be seen, although other versions of his face have been painted.
* Then I found an exhibit in a nearby park called “Earth from Above.” It was a display of breathtaking photographs of important images from around the world concerning environmental issues. There were also statistical facts shown regarding environmental awareness and energy saving practices that everyone should embody. I think that it is a very prevalent topic to discuss as the world’s energy sources are becoming more limited and global warming is real threat to the planet.
* One thing that I’ve noticed about the Prague readings is that there is quite a lot of discussion of the Jewish community. This is not the case with the Vienna readings. Even by sightseeing I could tell that Prague is more open with their Jewish history, especially of the Holocaust. Austria tends to avoid this subject entirely. Prague even seems to be fairly open with their Communist history as well. Although Kafka’s The Metamorphosis doesn’t discuss either of these topics, I think it provides a social commentary on the fixed roles of family life, with an emphasis on the corruption of the working-class in the Marxist era. Gregor represents the workingman, providing for his whole family and even losing his self-integrity through his mindless job to the point that he turns into vermin. The mother and sister are clearly domesticated and the father is too old to have a dependable job. The family eventually falls apart horrified by Gregor’s incurable state, but then he starves himself. The family simply moves on with their lives, commenting on the exploitation, as well as the lack of care and acknowledgement towards the working class.
August 19
Inside the Leopold Museum
* I’m bummed that I didn’t discover the Museumsquartier before today. It is such a cool, vibrant place with a very modern design; something new compared the buildings along the Ringstrasse or the cathedrals in the Innerestadt. I went to the Leopold Museum, which had a large collection of Egon Shiele and Gustav Klimt. The overall look of their paintings are very similar since they both were the leaders in the Secession Movement at the turn-of-the-century. Downstairs there was a really neat exhibit on Women in art through the 16th to 21st centuries. It was interesting to not only see the changes in the way females are represented, but to see what hasn’t changed and how much of what is painted is continuously made for the male gaze.
* Tonight was the infamous night of the fire alarm. Interesting that after thirty minutes of annoying alarms the fire department finally arrives. I can’t really say if this is a cultural thing or maybe just glitch in the system.
August 20
* Schloss Schonbrunn: a place of my dreams! It’s at places like this where you can let your historical imagination run wild. It’s on such a grand scale, which is very suiting for the powerful Habsburg dynasty. The Privy garden off to the side is a perfect example of the neoclassical gardens that are designed to show the domination over nature as well as classical antiquity and rationality. The Hedge Maze is also an example of this geometric fascination with having an imposing order on nature. But most of all, the Hedge Maze is fun! I actually managed to get lost in there, which is sad since mostly kids play in it. The grandiose Glorieta standing atop the hill is a dominating landmark that looks as if it should belong atop Mt. Olympus instead. It is also interesting that Schonbrunn was originally built as an escape from the city but now it is one of Vienna’s busiest stops for tourists and nowadays there is no separation from the palace to the city. Schonbrunn was also built as answer to Versailles. I’ve had the pleasure of going there and I have to admit that I find Versailles more glamorous and lavish. Both palaces have similar layouts, but I just can’t get over the Petit Trianon and other buildings and cottages in the gardens that were built for Marie Antoinette, who just happens to be a Habsburg.
August 21
* I’m glad that I ventured to the KunstHausWien and the Hundertwasser Haus, especially since it wasn’t a requirement in the syllabus. The exterior of these funky apartments are entertaining enough, but the real hidden gem is to go inside to the Hundertwasser Museum. It is full of paintings done by the environmentalist of the same name, as well as miniature models. There is one model in particular that is of an ideal environmental friendly city that is semi built into the ground, with paths of grass leading from rooftop to rooftop while livestock grazes on your home (think The Shire from Lord of the Rings). Not only was Hundertwasser concerned with the way people interact with nature, but he was big on tolerance in all forms and even created new flags that would represent the established peace between Jews and Muslims.
* I also checked out the Film Museum today. All that was open was the library, which was rather small, but still important in preserving films. I believe that one of the most important aspects of film is its use for documenting history. Even though the museum may be small, its dedication to the preservation of film is extremely important and I highly respect that.
August 22
* It’s always hard reading about the Holocaust, and Ruth Kluger’s memoir is no exception. Like other Holocaust biographies she talks about the horrors of war, the extremities of humankind, and the gut-wrenching things done to the prisoners. But Kluger also adds some new things that I haven’t read about before. Firstly, I appreciated the details she put in, such as when her teacher at school was giving orders to cut out Nazi insignias with construction paper. Her stream of consciousness is also different from others. Her descriptions aren’t just memories, they’re commentaries told from her adult point of view mixed with her childhood perspective, which makes for an interesting read. Also, Kluger gives the feminist viewpoint; a harsh reality that was disturbing to read.
* We also watched “Murderers Among Us: The Simon Weisenthal Story” tonight. As with Kluger’s book, there were new things in the film that I hadn’t known too much about, like how war crimes became official and how the trials were conducted, which according to the movie were very biased. You don’t often hear about how people went around hunting down Nazis. I thought it was a highly effective film, with great performances and themes of forgiveness and revenge, two very opposite things.
August 23
* Today was a very strange, sad, and morbid day with our visit to the Mauthausen concentration camp. It was one of the only level three camps, which meant that once you arrived you were never meant to leave, or as the Nazis described, the only way out was through the chimney. The various memorials that had been resurrected there were all rather morbid, but then how could they not be when dealing with such a horrible atrocity to mankind? During our tour I learned a few new things like the different reasons why the prisoners’ hair was shaved off. 1) for cleanliness and disease control, 2) so that people’s individuality would be gone, everyone would look the same, and 3) so that the nearby community could spot out prisoners that had escaped. Probably the most bone-chilling moment I had there was when I stepped inside the prison hall because it looked just as if it were in use, unlike the empty barracks. Another strange moment was when I went down to the quarry where all the labor was done. It was strange because now it is a beautiful scenery, but I felt so wrong thinking that when just 60 years ago people were being murdered here. Also, walking up the ‘Stairs of Death’ I was getting really winded, which made me stop and put things into perspective. Here I am, a healthy 19 year old girl having trouble getting up the hundreds of stairs while people suffering from malnutrition and abuse had to run up these stairs, with heavy loads, while people pointed guns at them.
August 24
* The UN tour was probably one of my favorite things we did this entire month. It was amazing to see the large conference room and just knowing that diplomats from around the world meet here to try and create peace just made me giddy. Even more exciting was the lecture on the International Atomic Energy Agency. I was really impressed by our lecturer, and even more impressed by our class and the intellectual questions that they all asked. I didn’t know so much time and effort went into controlling the atomic energy that is in the world. It’s also nice to know that safety inspections are done regularly and that there are many positive factors towards using atomic energy. It was a bit disturbing though when Mr. Kinley told us his job is one that keeps him up at night. He made it clear that there is a lot of work to be done to ensure more safety, such as having more countries to agree on joining the agency, as well as informing us about terrorist threats.
August 25
* Today we went to the Secession Building, which is so intriguing from the outside with the ‘golden cabbage’ sitting on top. Seeing Klimt’s Beethoven Frieze was neat, especially since it is a fresco and it is permanently there. It also just goes to show how important Klimt was as an artist since his work is also shown at the Leopold Museum, the Belvedere, and I’m sure at many more places. The building also housed some cutting-edge art, which makes sense since the building was built specifically for the Art Nouveau artists and their radical new style.
* Tonight we saw “The Third Man” at the BurgKino. I absolutely loved this film. First of all, I loved the music choice of the erratic ukulele, which was so unfitting and polar opposite from classical Viennese music that it worked really well with the Film Noir style and the undertones of uncertainty. The story was also intriguing and there were some very memorable and entertaining lines said by Orson Welles’ character when he was in the Reisenrad.
August 26
* Today a group of us went to the very small town of Gostling where we went river-rafting. Besides all the fun and excitement that comes with rafting down a river, our tour guide pointed out that when it floods you can find old World War II remnants like guns and other military equipment because after the war everyone was ordered to discard of their things in the river.
* The little town turned out to be one of our favorite spots this entire trip merely because it was just so darn cute and quaint. We found a little party and biergarten down the road where a live accordion band was performing. It felt like the quintessential Austrian experience.
August 27
Biking through the Austrian woods!
* Today was very enlightening as we explored the town of Gostling…by bike! We rode along a beautiful creek, through the woods, and up and down some of the local neighborhood. I would definitely love to retire here! This type of ‘country town’ has such a different feel to it than any place I’ve been to in the U.S. Once we were done, we made our way back to Vienna where I went to bed really early after all that outdoor activity.
August 28
* The Silver Collection in the Hofburg is something else! I can’t believe that so much china was needed! It’s as if every single person in Habsburg history had their own set of dishes for all the different occasions. Actually, that was probably the case. Some things were so ornate and I was surprised at all the packaging materials and how much of it traveled around with its host. The Imperial Apartments were also very glamorous. They are very similar to the rooms at Schonbrunn, which is to say that royalty is always to be treated as royalty. I was fascinated by the fact that Sisi had her own exercise room, that’s just not something I think of royal women doing in the 19th century, but apparently she did suffer from eating disorders. Speaking of Sisi, she has the Sisi Museum completely dedicated to her. Her and her husband, Franz Josef had an interesting marriage, as he loved her endlessly and she was a bit turned off at the fact that they were cousins. The story of her assassination is what caught my attention at the museum. The story starts as she is making her way towards a boat dock when out of nowhere an Italian anarchist stabs her directly in the chest. Unbeknownst to her, Sisi just thinks she’s been knocked down and continues to board the boat, where she faints. She is rushed to the hospital and only then do they realize that she has been stabbed, which turned out to be fatal.
August 29
Art Nouveau U-bahn station...the very familiar Karlsplatz
* I enjoyed lunch at the Café Museum where we sat on the traditional Biedermeier chairs. I like the fact that everything here is done at a slower pace, that people will just sit down for hours either reading the paper or chatting with a colleague. Being leisurely is really a beautiful thing, and it is far different from being lazy, which is mostly found in America.
* Then we looked at the Art Nouveau buildings done by Otto Wagner, which are next to the Naschmarkt. I wouldn’t want to actually live in one of these buildings, I’d rather live across the street so I could stare at them and gaze upon the flowing flowers and golden palates, unless the interior is just as beautiful as the exterior. Then we did a tour of the Ringstrasse on the streetcar where we looked at all the important buildings that are at the core of Vienna. In “Fin-de-Siecle,” the Ringstrasse is described as a “great circular artery” since its function is to serve political, educational, and cultural activity. I think the description is very fitting since our whole time in Vienna was revolved around the Ringstrasse and the Innerestadt.
* While walking around the city I noticed Peterskirche, a smaller Baroque church, and I thought I’d take a peep inside. To my surprise Mass was occurring. It was a very odd experience because 1) I felt so out of place, 2) there were several tourists walking in and out and that just seems distracting, and 3) there were hardly any attendants, which made me really sad for some reason. I’m not a religious person, but for some reason seeing the old and beautiful church not being used to its full potential was strange to me.
August 30
On the Reisenrad
* The Lower Belvedere is similar to the Upper Belvedere, but smaller in scale. Unlike the Upper palace, I found the rooms in the Lower palace to be more interesting than the actual paintings being displayed. The Hall of Marble and the Hall of Grotesques were beautiful, but the Gold Cabinet caught all of my attention. I also enjoyed the “character heads” that were scattered about by Franz Xaver Messerschmidt, which I couldn’t help but feel were mocking the serious Baroque paintings and the traditionalism that were present in the rooms.
* On the last day in town I thought it would be fitting to finally ride the famous Reisenrad in the Prater. It provided a whole new perspective of the city for me, which was very enlightening and even a little bittersweet as I was soon to say good-bye to Vienna. I could see the whole city from the top, as the sun was setting. The Innerestadt, the Prater, UNO City, the Danube, the Vienna Woods, and I could even see the Erotik Shop Video that we pass by everyday….Oh how I’m going to miss this place!
